Deep Dive: The Unimatic U4 "Modello Quattro"

There is a certain confidence required to take something minimal and strip it back even further. When most watch brands’ default move for ‘innovation’ is to add complications, extra textures, louder details, anything that makes a spec sheet look more impressive, Unimatic has built its reputation by resisting that urge. Founded in Milan by Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato, the brand has always focused on restraint, and the Modello Quattro U4 feels like the clearest version of that philosophy so far. 

It asks a simple but daring question: what happens to a dive watch when you remove the rotating bezel, the feature most people see as essential? The result is not a watered down diver (no pun-intended). It is something more focused, and arguably more confident, while becoming versatile-looking enough to be classified as a field watch. Let’s look closer at the U4.

 

The Unimatic Brand

Source: Hodinkee

 

Since its foundation, Unimatic kept things tight with limited production runs and a strict design language. No unnecessary variation for the sake of variety. Even their collaborations, including projects with Massena LAB, have stayed true to that core identity. The watches feel equally at home in a rugged outdoor setting or in a more design driven space, meaning its wearer does not need to switch what’s on the wrist that much. That balance between tool watch and design object is not accidental, but carefully controlled.

The Modello Uno reworked the dive watch while the Modello Due leaned toward a field watch layout. The U4 sits somewhere in between*. Unimatic calls it a military take on the Uno, which is fair, but that description does not fully capture how different it feels. It stands apart in a way that becomes obvious once you spend time with it.

*If you are curious what the U3 is, it is Unimatic’s Chronograph offering.

 

The U4 Face

Source: Teddy Baldassare

 

The fixed bezel, meant to add subtlety to the watch, is ironically what defines the U4. On the Modello Uno, the rotating bezel plays a big role both visually and functionally as it frames the dial and gives the watch its classic dive identity. Removing it could have felt like a downgrade. Instead, it feels deliberate.

The U4 uses a flat, brushed steel bezel with no markings and made it non-rotating as well. Without the visual pull of a rotating scale, your eye goes straight to the dial. Because of this, the watch feels more solid, almost monolithic. There is a quiet toughness to it that fits the military inspiration better than a traditional dive bezel ever could.

Source: Monochrome Watches

 

The dial is characteristic of Unimatic, with large dot and rectangular hour markers, and a triangle at twelve. You’ve also got clean vector style hands and a seconds hand with a lollipop counterweight. C3 Super LumiNova fills the markers and hands, glowing green in low light. As a final detail, an off white minute track circles the edge.

Without a rotating bezel competing for attention, the dial feels sharper and more serious. There is nothing decorative about it. Even the decision to place the brand name at six o’clock instead of twelve makes a difference. The top half of the dial is left open and uncluttered, which brings to mind older military watches that prioritized clarity over branding. A small adjustment that quietly shifts the overall tone.

 

The Monoblock Case

Source: irate_alien on Reddit

 

The 40mm stainless steel case is one of the most important parts of the design, even if it does not immediately grab attention. It is built from a single solid block of steel, which adds strength and durability, but it still wears comfortably on the wrist. The size strikes a balance between feeling tough and practical without becoming heavy or uncomfortable. It also switches to a flat 2.8 millimeter sapphire crystal instead of the Uno’s double domed crystal. These changes make the watch appear more compact, even though the dial remains 29 millimeters. The thickness increases to 13.8 millimeters, giving the watch a bit more presence on the wrist, but it does not feel bulky at all. In fact, owners comment that it feels planted and secure.

The drilled lugs continue that practical mindset, making strap changes quick and easy, which matters on a watch like this. The U4 can take on different personalities depending on what you pair it with. A NATO strap emphasizes its military side while rubber pushes it closer to its dive roots. Leather softens it and makes it more versatile. The watch feels ready to adapt.

Inside the U4 is the Seiko NH35A. For anyone familiar with Seiko modding, this movement needs little introduction. It runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour, offers about 41 hours of power reserve, and includes hacking seconds and automatic winding. For a watch positioned as a modern tool, that reliability matters more than having an untested in-house movement. 

 

Upcoming U4-Inspired Seiko Mod Case

Source: @mod_by_kellan on IG

 

What makes the U4’s design so easy to adapt is that most of its character comes from the case. The dial, hands, and strap can all change. The case stays the same. It sets the mood and gives the watch its identity before anything else is added.

That same idea carries over to the upcoming N4 Field Diver Case. It measures 40mm wide with a 49mm lug to lug distance, giving it a strong and stable presence on the wrist without feeling oversized. The flat, sterile bezel creates that same solid, carved from steel look, while keeping the dial area completely open for whatever direction you want to take. An oversized 8mm screw down crown adds to the tool watch feel, and the sterile 200m rated caseback keeps things clean and functional. 

Keep an eye out for the release, happening soon!

 

Wrap Up

The Modello Quattro U4 stands out because of what it removes. In a market where brands compete by adding layers of complexity, Unimatic swam against the tide and chose to simplify. It sits somewhere between a diver and a field watch without fully committing to either, making it hard to categorize and adding to its appeal.

Ready to give your own spin? Plan ahead and pick the parts you think would go well with the brutalist look of the U4 case. Whether you’d go for a more dive-oriented look or something leaning more towards a field watch vibe, we have all the parts you’ll need for a personalized watch.

Happy modding!