Retro Seiko: A Look At Their Vintage Square Models
Seiko has done their fair share of innovations in the world of horology, but they’re not one to shy away from jumping on bandwagons and adding their own spin into it. Just like when the ‘70s and ‘80s entered a square watch craze, the Japanese watch brand joined the trend and came up with their own geometric watches. While their modern lineup is dominated by the more traditional round shape, their retro classics will always have room on collectors’ stashes. Most of them are now considered underrated gems that offer a stylish blast from the past.
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From sleek quartz dress watches to high-tech digital chronographs and mechanical racing-inspired designs, Seiko proved that great watches don’t have to be round. Some of these models flew under the radar, while others, like a James Bond wardrobe entry, earned cult status.
In this blog, we’re taking a closer look at three of Seiko’s most interesting vintage square models: the refined Dolce 7731, the movie-famous G757-4050 “Octopussy”, and the mechanical powerhouse 7016-5000 “Monaco.” Each one shows a different side of Seiko’s design, and they might just inspire you to build yourself a square watch of your own.
The Square Dress Watch
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The Seiko Dolce 7731 came out in the 1980s, right when quartz watches were starting to take over the market and wreaking havoc to the Swiss horology scene. This model keeps things simple with a slim gold-plated case and a clean square shape. At just 4.5mm thick, it’s light and easy to wear, especially for people who prefer smaller, low-profile watches.
The gold dial has a soft, textured finish, with thin baton markers and leaf-shaped hands that give it a refined look. There’s no date window or extra features crammed into the watch save for a small “DOLCE” logo at 6 o’clock, making it a favorite for formal events. It also runs on a reliable quartz movement, which means you won’t have to worry about winding or setting it often.
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This watch isn’t flashy, but it’s well-designed and easy to dress up or down. This model now commands a high price in the gray market, which just shows its timeless design.
The Bond Watch
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In the 1983 film Octopussy, the now Bond fan favorite Seiko G757-5020 was shown doing all kinds of spy work, like tracking a Fabergé egg with a built-in homing device, which we’re sure the real-life unit can also do with a few modifications. It appears in multiple scenes, including the opening, M’s office, a casino, and Q’s lab.
Released in 1982, this model was part of Seiko’s Sports 100 line. It has a digital screen surrounded by a black horseshoe-shaped bezel and comes with a metal bracelet. It also features an alarm, stopwatch, dual time zones, and even a backlight, which are all powered by Seiko’s G757 quartz module. If that’s not impressive enough, the watch is also water-resistant up to 100 meters which is a feat for the digital watches at the time.
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Today, the G757-5020 is one of the rarest and most expensive Seiko models from the Bond era. It’s often copied or confused with similar-looking models, but true fans know the exact version that made 007 history.
The Square Chronograph
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The Seiko 7016-5000, often called the “Monaco,” is a vintage automatic chronograph that stands out with its bold square case and retro design. Released in the 1970s, it shares a similar shape with the famous TAG Heuer Monaco (earning it its nickname), but has its own distinct identity that you won’t necessarily be confusing the two.
This watch uses Seiko’s 7016A automatic movement and includes day, date, and chronograph functions. It has a 37mm-wide steel case that measures about 40mm from top to bottom - a comfortable size for most wrists. The dial on surviving units often shows signs of age but keeps its classic charm, with many watches still using their original parts.
The watch isn’t water-resistant and now usually comes with an aftermarket leather strap. It also uses a plexiglass crystal instead of sapphire, which was typical for its era.
For vintage Seiko fans, the Monaco is a fun, mechanical alternative to modern square watches. It may not be a perfect watch, and is often overlooked by vintage hunters, but it's fun to wear nonetheless for the people who own it.
Modding Your Own Square Watch
If you’ve developed a taste for square watches by now, you’ll quickly realize that these retro cases are hard to come by, and are often sold with a high premium. It’s not very accessible to a starter collector, but if you still want a square timepiece to add to your watch gallery, you can always get crafty and build one yourself!
We are currently offering 3 square case designs in different finishes. The first one is the NMK921 Square watch, which was inspired by the Seiko Silverwave Cockpit, an award-winning, vintage, diver-pilot case hybrid. It’s a great case for a MilSpec-style or dive watch style build, with a modern 41.2mm sizing and a matching square caseback for wearing comfort.
We followed it up with the NMK938 Square Mk. 2, which has more rounded edges and an integrated bezel and bracelet for a sportier look. It also features decorative screws on the bezel to emphasize the Gerald Genta inspiration. For easier modding, this case has a pre-installed chapter ring and crystal so there’s one less step to worry about.
Our latest square case release is the NMK954 TV Case which has the most “Retro Seiko” vibe of the three, featuring a slim silhouette of 36mm, a sleeker integrated bezel, as well as an integrated ladder-style stainless steel bracelet. This case lends itself well to dress-style builds, but we think it will work great for tool watch designs too.
Wrap Up
While Seiko modding usually sticks to round cases, square vintage watches open new creative doors. Imagine building a modern take on the Dolce using a brushed square case and minimalist dial, or crafting a sporty mod inspired by the Octopussy with bold colors and digital accents. You could even build a Monaco-style chronograph using a mecaquartz movement and square dial layout (interested in this idea? Let us know!).
Ready to go square? Browse our catalog of square watch cases and check out our expanding selection of mod parts to help you bring your vintage-inspired build to life! We also have plenty of round case options if you want to keep it traditional.
Happy modding!