Spend enough time in watch modding groups and you will see a question pop up from time to time that’s going to make you sit down and ponder. What is the best movement to build around? Hand-wind, automatic, or quartz? Most swear automatic mechanical movements are the only “real” choice, and you’re probably in the same camp. But that doesn’t mean the other two options have no place in Seiko modding!

Each movement type has strengths and each has weaknesses. While automatic movements truly are the right choice for 99% of builds, going a different route and trying out hand-wind and quartz movements can make for some unique watches.

Let’s dive into it.

Hand-Wind: The Romantic Choice

Source: u/Distinct-Pen6957 on Reddit

 

Hand-wound or manual wind movements attract a certain type of builder; the people who enjoy the ritual. Winding the crown every morning feels personal to them and it makes the watch feel alive. Popular choices include the Seagull ST36 and, if someone wants to spend more, certain Swiss ETA hand-wind movements.

The biggest advantage here is the thickness. Hand-wind movements are thinner because they do not have a rotor, so if you are building a slim dress watch inspired by the 1960s, you almost have to go hand-wind. An automatic adds extra height, and that can push the case over 10mm thick. That may not sound like much, but it changes how the watch fits under a sleeve and has a noticeable impact on one’s attire. A thin watch slides under a shirt cuff easily when a thicker one catches.

There is also the view through the caseback. Without a rotor blocking half the movement, you can more easily see everything working, particularly the balance wheel which swings back and forth with nothing in the way. Some people love that clean view while others think it looks empty without the rotor moving around. It really comes down to taste.

Source: u/shark_arta on Reddit

 

Now the downsides.

Winding sounds romantic at first, but that beautiful hand-wind build can turn into the one you skip because it feels like work.

Water resistance is another issue as most hand-wind setups use a simple push-pull crown which usually does not seal as tightly as a screw-down crown. If you want to build a serious dive watch, hand-wind is not ideal.

In terms of modding, parts can also be harder to find. Automatic movements like the NH35 have huge aftermarket support while hand-wind options are more limited, unless you actually start with an NH movement and remove its rotor yourself. Finding the right dial or hands can take more effort. 

Hand-wind works best when you want something slim, classic, and a little more involved. Just be honest about whether you will enjoy the daily routine long term.

 

Automatic: The All-Rounder

Source: u/MissionTroll404 on Reddit

 

The Seiko NH35 and NH36 are everywhere, with a massive parts ecosystem that makes modding way easier and more fun. Automatic movements are also beginner-friendly. Swapping a dial and hands on an NH35 does not require advanced watchmaking skills. With basic tools and patience, most people can do it. That accessibility is a big reason modding has grown so much.

Durability is another plus. The NH35 can handle mistakes. Drop it during assembly, magnetize it, leave it unwound for months or even years… It will probably survive. You can learn without feeling like every error will cost hundreds of dollars.

Of course, automatics are not perfect. As mentioned in the previous section, the rotor adds thickness and that limits how slim your watch can be. Rotor noise can also surprise people the first time they hear it spin freely, like with some Miyota movements. Still, for most builds, automatic is the safe and smart choice. 

 

Quartz: The Practical Option

Source: u/kenversus on Reddit

 

Quartz movements often get dismissed in mechanical watch circles the way some car guys denounce EVs. Some people see them as boring or cheap. But experienced modders know there is a time and place for quartz.

Accuracy is the big advantage. A mechanical watch might gain or lose up to 40 seconds a day. A basic quartz like the Miyota 2035 can stay within seconds per month. It costs very little and can run for years on one battery.

If you are building a true tool watch, accuracy matters. A pilot watch or field watch that drifts daily is not exactly practical, and quartz solves that problem.

Quartz movements are also thin. Very thin. That opens up design possibilities you simply cannot achieve with most mechanical movements if more suppliers support it in the future.

The Seiko VK series deserves special mention. It is often called “mecha-quartz” because the seconds hand sweeps smoothly instead of ticking once per second. You get the visual feel of a mechanical watch with the accuracy and low maintenance of quartz. For many modders, it is the perfect daily wearer movement.

The downside is less about the technical specifications of the movement and more to do with its perception, especially in the Seiko modding scene. Mechanical watches carry status in enthusiast communities. A quartz build with an exhibition caseback will not impress most collectors, and resale value can also be lower. Whether that matters depends on why you are building in the first place, although one might ponder why this is the case when quartz literally almost made mechanical watches obsolete in the past.

 

Wrap Up

There will always be the right movement for any project. The most experienced builders do not limit themselves to one category and use hand-wind movements if it matches their idea better, or go for quartz if it adds the functionality that a watch needs. At the end of the day, the best movement is the one that makes sense for what you are trying to create. 

Ready to bring your ideal watch to life? Check out namokiMODS, where we stock all the parts you’ll need for a complete and premium watch build. And yes, that includes the movement. We have Seiko’s NH and VK movements, as well as premium automatic options from Miyota. 

Happy modding!

 

February 13, 2026 — Jeremiah A

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